Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Using Paste wax vs. Polyacrylic sealers.....

I had a few questions about using paste wax vs. water-based polyacrylic sealers after my post yesterday, so I thought I would explain why a little bit and give you a chart with the pro's and cons of both. While I have been painting furniture for over a decade; I am not an expert by any means and while there are many other applications for both sealers, but I am talking specifically in relation to painted furniture.


I know paste wax is hot right now; but I still prefer using a glaze and polyacrylic "poly" (you can use the glaze technique I talked about in yesterday's post with chalk paint, In fact,on the chairs I showed you the blue was a flat paint and the grey was chalk paint.) and my biggest reason is at the very end.
Here are some pros and cons of both:
-Paste wax is  a beautiful product and gives a lovely finish. However, in high use areas it can scratch, and easily wears. It is really meant to enhance the finish, not protect the wood. I know if I put it on a table top with my kids, the  little monsters would put a fork mark right across the top two seconds after I was done. Polyacrylic is really the stuff you need to keep a table top or chair from scratching and hold up to everyday wear and tear.
(That being said, I have used paste wax over  a painted"polyed" surface because I know it makes marker and other stains easily removable.) 
-Poly needs to be reapplied every few years, where in a high use area, you have to reapply wax every few months. In a piece that is not high use, not as much.
-Paste wax will deepen colors and really enrich them like poly can't. Though Poly will intensify them. Brown paste wax can add a nice patina if you don't want to go through the trouble of waiting for a glaze to dry. However, brown antiquing wax generally comes in one shade where glaze can come in any shade.
- I do think that wax allows wood to breath better. Whether that makes a difference in painted furniture as opposed to stained or natural wood, I don't know.
-Polyacrylic dries in a few hours where wax can take over a day to cure. In a very warm room or really sunny window it might not cure at all and brown wax can actually rub off and stain  fabric textiles.
-Even though chalk paint itself can be environmentally  friendly and lower VOC, as are many flat paints, Wax and Poly are both generally not, both have solvents (even though Polyacrylic is a water-based product), and need to be applied in really well ventilated areas.
-Both poly and paste wax  can be applied over chalk or flat paint.
-Poly can be applied in a brush or spray application where wax only has one application method. Though wax will always give you a beautiful, smooth,deep finish, and really enhance color or grain,water-based poly can be streaky and temperamental to put on with a brush (I prefer the spray).
-The one point that alters my decision the most  is when you go to repaint a piece of furniture.With wax, you have to remove every last bit, or your paint will come right off. This can involve extensive sanding or stripping, where with Poly, you can give it a light sand to give it some tooth and paint away. Since I am a frequent furniture re-painter, this would be way too time consuming for me. You can also use poly to seal a  piece against "bleed through" such as when you are trying to paint over that finicky red mahogany.
Here's also a quick chart to help you make a decision which one you might want to use.

I hope this helps you make a decision which sealer is the best one for your painted project.
Jen

25 comments:

  1. Thanks so much! I was just thinking about this yesterday. I haven't used poly much, but I think I'll start trying it, especially for pieces that get a lot of wear. Fondly, Tami

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  2. Thanks for the comparison! I have always used poly, and just recently used wax on one shelf project. With three kids, I have washed crayon marks, markers and paint right off my poly coated dining table.

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  3. OK, this reference table alone needs to receive credit for a doctorate of some kind! Brilliant!
    I have struggled with which sealer to apply and you coalesced the decision process beautifully.
    Your good deed is done for the day. Or week-month-year...

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  4. Thanks for this! Beautiful chairs. I need to give this a try. I've never used either! ;)

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  5. I just put poly over a chalk painted piece for the first time yesterday - and I love the results! It's a little different looking, but I really love the way it turned out. Thanks for the pros/cons - that's a great reference!

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    1. Did you use the spray or brush on kind?

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  6. Oh, this is so clear - thanks!! I've always used poly, but have been reading about wax and wondered about the differences. I too, think I'll stick with poly.

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  7. Hi! Have a quick question, I painted cabinet with a flat blk paint, it looked really nice and then added annie sloan dark wax over them and now they look splotchy.. shinny in some spots and dull in others. I did very light wax but right where I put it on is dark and shinny. Don't know where I went wrong, I'm thinking I should have put a poly on them. Whats your thoughts?

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    1. I would try to really give the entire cabinet a really good buffing. It could just be the wax is not rubbed in all of the way in some spots, or heavier in others.Give that a try and see if that helps.

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  8. Hi Jennifer, a while back I asked you your paint colors in an email...and then took a leap and painted my dining set. Now I've been scouring the internet trying to find whether or not to do poly or wax (since I did white, I'm worried about yellowing). So thank you for making this an obvious choice! I'm going to go with the poly since the table is "high traffic" and I have a little one growing up and I know she'll do something or another on that table!!! Thanks for your help!

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    1. Oh I forgot to tell you my email was jodi_jay@hotmail...maybe you remember me?

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  10. Great write-up and I agree with you wholeheartedly. This chalk paint/paste wax craze is a bit trendy in my opinion, and regardless of the cool finish, in time it just amounts to more work!

    My mother-in-law has been using wax on her wood floors for ages and raves and raves about the advantage of waxing her floors. I think it is important to point out that while wax can be a protector on furniture(especially floors with it's water repelling qualities and such), it does not replace a permanent sealing. For floors that have been stained and sealed, wax is a great maintenance product. It fills in scratches, restores color and sheen and protects against water. We bought an older home with wood floors and stripping/repairing/resealing them is out of our price range for now. You can find wax in many colors at a hardware store in the flooring section (walnut, red oak, etc.). If you are not able to strip and refinish floors, wax is a great way to bring the life back to them as a temporary fix vs. doing the big expensive job. On the downside, I've found that I cannot use my steam mop to deep clean my floors, it melts the wax right off. It scratches off easily if I move anything heavy over it, and it has come off on some of my textiles. It really does take a couple of days to cure which is a bummer if you need to use the room.

    Because of my experience with waxing wood floors, I am completely against using it on furniture!. It is just not practical. I like a nice hard finish that doesn't come off from use. Especially when you can get the same aged effect with a glaze. The energy and time put into redoing a piece of furniture is something I want to last, not continually maintain. I need more mileage out of my furniture than wax will provide.

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  11. Is it possible to paint poly over wax? I waxed a table after painting with chalk paint and I am not satisfied. I am wondering if I can poly over the top?

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    1. Not with water based poly unless you remove the wax. Was is an oil based product and is a natural repellent. That's why I ma not a huge wax fan when I want to repaint something.

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    2. I am sorry, but this is incorrect. I paint pieces, using both latex and chalk paint. When I do a piece with chalk paint I always wax it because the finish is gorgeous and poly just does not have the same beautiful, soft finish. If the chalk painted piece will be a highly used piece, I add poly over the waxed finish. I use either rub-on poly or spray and it does stick and increase the durability of the finish. I have used this method many times and have never had a problem.

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  12. Oh I wish I would have found this article a few days ago before I blew $40 on 2 cans of wax that I just had to have since reading all the craze about it on all these pinterest projects. I've always used glaze and poly, should have just stuck with it. The wax is def more work to put on, buff, etc, imo. Oh well, I've got it, so at least I'm going to use the cans I bought!

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  13. Ugh - I just chalk painted my dining room table and finished it with wax. Big mistake! It has already been scratched and the paint comes right off! Thanks for the information. I'm going to strip it and start all over finishing with the poly.

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    1. You can paint over the wax with chalk paint and then poly, no need to strip!!

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  14. Thank you so much for this post. I just finished an antique dresser in ASCP Graphite. I came out beautiful. I put a coat of minwax dark stain over it for depth and contrast. I waxed one drawer with clear and dark wax and it came out blotchy just like the other artisan explained above. So, I'm repainting the drawer and off to pick up some POLY...and have bookmarked your Blog :)
    Shan
    thevintageshanty@gmail.com

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  15. Glad to hear this. I've switched over to sealing almost all of my pieces (regardless of paint type) with wipe on poly. I found wax to go onto dark painted pieces with a lot of variation in color and could never get it to not look streaky in some lighting situations. The wipe on poly does just that...wipes on with a rag like water so I never have a streaky of brush stroked finish. any thought on wipe on poly vs a brush on variety?

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  16. Great comparison Jen and I'd have to agree with you even though I don't have nearly as much experience with furniture painting. (I've experienced much of what you said though.) I was waxing all of my table tops and such but I go straight for the poly-acrylic now (except for my wooden farm table top). I still use the wax on the legs and such. I only just discovered poly-acrylic last year. I always stayed away from anything "poly" because I thought it looked plastic and would yellow my piece. I was happy to learn that poly-acrylic does neither. More importantly, I just finished chatting with Kimberly and want you to know that you're in my thoughts!

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    1. Now I see in your chart that it DOES yellow over time. Sugar. I have painted it on so much white. Do cleaning products have anything to do with it? I'll stick to wiping tops with a wet rag & no cleaner. Maybe that will prolong the yellowing process.

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  17. I used wipe on poly (not polycrylic) over DIY chalk paint a couple of weeks ago, and I liked the ease of it. I too worry about repainting over wax. I'm not a fan of the application and buffing of wax. :(

    great post! pinning!

    gail

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